Model of the Month

Featuring the models voted Model of the Month by Poole Vikings Model Club members at our monthly meetings. Once the page holds a maximum of twelve models, then the oldest will be replaced by the newest giving a good idea of the contemporary modelling standards being achieved by Club members.

Our Hall of Fame post shows a gallery of single photos of former Models of the Month and other models by our members that have won prizes at our own and other shows.

At our own April Show each year we will try to feature the previous twelve models of the month together on the club stand.

The Model of the Month for May 2017 was another dead heat between

Dave Lovell’s 1/72nd scale Type 89 Japanese tank

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Firstly many thanks to those who voted for my build, when I first got back into modelling like many, 1/35 was the weapon of choice, and I was quite happy for a few years running with the herd. But it rapidly seemed to become same old same old and I was struggling to improve, and I know one shouldn’t be influenced,  but as the stuff in magazines got better I felt as if I was in a rut going backwards. Then a few years back at our show I was talking to the late Derek Foley, now most of you will know a man not afraid to voice his opinion. He pulled a model from one of the stalls, and told me that this was what I  should be building. It was a little Italian artillery tractor so I had to listen to the history as well. With a look of great interest on my face whilst thinking to myself, bugger off bossy. I told him I would seriously consider it. Any way after a couple of circuits of the show looking at the same old, I’m ashamed to say I sneaked back and purchased said kit. This was a revelation,  small badly moulded parts none of which fitted very well but it was great. Built painted finished in a weekend, so thanks to Derek this is how my love affair with 1/72 began. Also with hardly any press, to aspire to, becoming my own judge and critic was a lot less painful. I must also say that from that point on Derek continued to show great interest, and encouragement each month in what I had built. Making it very special to me winning his memorial trophy the last two years.

Sorry for that, on with the job in hand. Now most of what I build has more to do with the box art than the subject and this little kit was no different, manufactured by IBG Models this is a beaut, crisp,  clean, zero flash. The moulded detail is fantastic link and length tracks and to finish off a fret of etch this is true shake and bake. It falls together, once built the whole thing was sprayed with Humbrol aerosol primer not cheap but works every time. I’m a great believer in if it works for you don’t change it. Next up I pre shaded with Tamiya NATO Black also squirted  it in all the hard to reach places. Next up I used Mr colour IJN Grey there are two shades one slightly paler than the other, the paler one used to fill the centre of panels and hatches then a very light coat of the darker one was sprayed over the whole thing. Mr colour thinners were used throughout. Various filters and washes were used in the weathering and detailing. These being applied and then washed back and removed using a brush lightly aspirated with odourless thinners. Having finished the model I decided the bottom half was not dirty enough so applied some more wash, then not taking to much notice started to remove it with thinners. Yep you guessed, paint thinners thinking that’s strange the paints coming off. Managed to stop before to much damage was done. So in the future I will try and read my labels. Not much more to add, any questions please ask at club. Most of what I do is a bit Heath Robinson but will try my best. Have a safe month all, and see you next time.

and

Trevor Griffiths 1/48th scale Messerschmitt Bf109E RUSSIAN  FRONT  1942

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I have usually built tanks or vehicles, but having recently built the Spitfire I decided to have a go at another wing thing, over the years I have seen in photographs and at shows German aircraft in white winter camouflage and thought that’s how I would do mine, the kit is from Tamiya in 1/48th scale.  I also decided to get the Eduard etched cockpit detail set plus canopy mask set, although the Tamiya instrument panel is fine I replaced it with the Eduard one, a bit of filing to smooth the surface and a couple of drops of superglue “job done”.  I recently bought a book in WH Smith LUFTWAFFE FIGHTERS, it has over 200 colour pictures of 109, 190, 110, ju88, he219, me163 and me 262, not bad for £7.99.  I also purchased some decals, more on that later.

The model itself being Tamiya went together very well just a smidge of filler here and there, after first building up the cockpit area it was painted dark grey as, correct me if I am wrong, was all German aircraft, the Eduard seatbelt harness was glued in place, this was then fitted and the two halves of the fuselage fixed together.  I don’t need to say anymore suffice to say the rest of the kit went together with no problem.  As the aircraft was going to be finished In white rather than use my usual Halford rattle can grey primer I used the white undercoat one, having seen an aircraft  in the book I purchased I decided on the one with the yellow nose wingtips and tail.

I began by pre shading the panel lines with Tamiya grey paint xf24, I have seen more and more model makers doing this including on tanks and vehicles etc so I thought I would have a go at this as well, next came xf2 white but allowing enough of the pre shading to still show through, the underside of the aircraft was sprayed with xf23 light blue, masking off the nose wing tips and the band round the fuselage, next came the yellow xf3.  I was happy with the finish so the aircraft was then given two fine coats of Humbrol gloss varnish from a can.

The panel lines were then given a wash to enhance them, again I was happy with this so another coat of gloss varnish was sprayed on the model ready for the decals, I used most of the decals for the kit from the box but I did purchase an extra set from Hannants  because in the book there was an “yellow 8” 109, I got a set with the number 6 in yellow as this was just what I wanted.

All the decals went “down” very well and when dry were sealed with yet another coat of gloss varnish, eventually the model was given a coat of Mr Hobby matt varnish to tone down everything.  All the detail painting was picked out using Vallejo paints before any coats of varnish.  The canopy had the masks put in place and sprayed dark grey, when dry the masks removed and fixed to the aircraft, I was very happy with the finished model.

The base is a photo frame, the “wood” is coffee sticks stuck down using super glue, they took a while to cut and glue and were then given a dark wash to stain them, the snow is from woodland scenic held in place by their own recommended glue, I enjoyed making this aircraft and the base and overall was happy with the end result.  I may even build another aircraft sometime but for now I think it is back to my beloved tanks.

 

The Model of the Month for April 2017 is a diorama of an Italeri 1/72nd  Messerschmitt  Me110 G-4 R/3, NJ.G.1/III Gruppe, Arnhem 1944, by Mike Parker.

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the light levels in our club venue can be pretty awful for photography and Malcolm struggled with the available light levels to get the above shots. Mike Parker has now provided a set of new photos taken at home in natural daylight that show the colour scheme and wiggle pattern more clearly.

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On my quest to build and display examples of ‘night fighter’ aircraft in 1:72 scale, I’m always on the lookout for the next example, this the twentieth in my collection. The model was purchased many moons ago, second hand and at a reasonable price. On returning home I place the kit on my ‘pending to build in the not too distant future’ shelf, with a number of others. A couple of years passed and the time finally came to build. The kit, an Italeri Messerschmitt Me110 G-4 R/3 in grey plastic was removed from the polybag and showed some promise. The moulding was generally fine, with some flash particularly on the rather elaborate arrangement of flame eliminating exhaust pipes, common with aircraft converted to this role. Transparencies and decals were adequate, which is more than I could say for the radar aerials; more about this later. All items received a soapy wash and dried thoroughly.

Instructions for the build were clear and concise and the build sequence straightforward. Starting with the cockpit containing enough detail to gain my interest. The radar operator’s panel, needed a little attention, adding a small piece of plasticard to fill a gaping hole, most visible if left unattended. Twin defensive, rearward facing machine guns were put aside to fit later. The fuselage halves mated well. So far so good, or so I thought. Next the simple task was to assemble the wings. I test fitted them, trying desperately to make them fit together, not a hope. The single moulded lower wing section was offered up to the two upper wing sections and they didn’t fit. Endeavouring to fit the main plane to the fuselage, along with the omittance of a port leading edge landing light compounded my frustrations. This was turning from a night fighter into a ‘nightmare’ fighter, but my persistence prevailed. After lots of filling and sanding I progressed onto the engine nacelles. Fortunately the exhaust pipes cleaned up fairly well and added great detail due to their odd configuration. These were to be fitted later. Note: the instruction for this kit illustrates engine sub-assemblies transposed. As for the landing light the need to file out the leading edge and position a small piece of transparent plastic was required, filing it over to follow the profile of the leading edge completed the task.

Filling, sanding and preparing to paint came next. The long ‘greenhouse’ canopy was cleaned and hand painted and adhered to the fuselage. Masked with Tamiya’s ‘bendy’ masking tape and Halford’s grey primer followed. It was at this point I realized I was out of Vallejo Air RLM76 pale blue grey paint; attempts to airbrush the same in Humbrol acrylics proved troublesome. So, with trusty flat brush in hand on went the first coat of Humbrol 247. A completed second was followed by coats of aerosol gloss varnish ready for decal application. Three colour schemes were provided by Italeri, the first two with splinter grey and green camouflage and another with an overall ‘squiggle’ random pattern in grey. I opted for the latter.

I now needed to devise a method of achieving this random pattern effect. After much trial and error I came to the conclusion that my present skill with brush and airbrush would not achieve the desired result. It was time to rely on some of the skills from my days as a technical illustrator. I reasoned that I could use a soft pencil, with a matched grey tone, to apply free hand this complex pattern; or so I thought. Research informed me that this style of camouflage to aircraft of the day was often hastily applied with a vast variety of outcomes, often due to the competence of the paint sprayer and his skill (or lack of) with a spray gun.  This finish often covered existing markings and in this case at least only applied to the upper surfaces.

My first attempts proved fruitless, after selecting a suitable soft pencil I practiced on a test piece of prepared plasticard, yet to no avail. It simply didn’t look right. It was then I reasoned that in my own limited experience of spraying aircraft, that only certain coverage can be obtained, due to the practice of how the spray gun is handled. Only certain radial motions, limited by the joints of arm and hand can be achieved. This may seem a little extreme, but once taken on board, the desired effect (after some practice) proved effective and this technique I applied to the model.

The next big task of most night fighter aircraft was the radar aerials. As with many kits the ones supplied do not do the rest of the model credit. Earlier in the build I purchased online some turned brass alternative aerials and proceeded to assemble them. This required some ingenuity, with a strip of card and some cut down icelolly sticks glued together, a suitably little jig came into being. This allowed me to accurately super glue all the elements with precise spacing and alignment. Next the ‘antler’ style frames, ‘out of the box’, were cleaned up and required 0.8mm holes drilled into each of the ends. Finally gluing these to the nose of the model, allowing to set, followed by gluing the brass aerials into the previously drilled holes. Later undercoated and brush painted.

Wheel undercarriage, propellers and exhausts received the appropriate treatment and attachment to the aircraft. Airbrush exhaust staining completed, final coats of flat aerosol varnish applied. Canopy masking carefully removed and other aerials fitted. Elastic thread, stained with a black Sharpie pen (other makes are available), a small hole drilled into both fins and thread adhered with cyanoacrylate. I chose to show the pilot’s cockpit glazing in the open position to allow easier viewing of at least some of the interior. Also not forgetting to retrofit the two rearward facing machine guns.

Next the base, a modified picture frame, reinforced with 6mm MDF insert, filled with wall filler, sealed with watered down PVA glue and painted. Scratch built workbench, complete with paint pot and paint mixing paraphernalia, added interest to this hangar scene. All that remained to do was to add a lone figure, spray gun in hand. A fitting detail in this case and on which to conclude my build.

 

The Model of the Month for March 2017 is a fabulous 1/48th scale model of a de Havilland Sea Devon by Ian Domeney, built from the Magna Models resin kit.

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 I’m sure many of you will remember a former Viking Club member, Martyn Gomm. Some of you will also know that he was the creator and producer of Magna Models. Martyn and his wife Lynn have lived for over ten years now in sunny Spain and a few years ago he sent me over a review sample of what was his latest creation, a 1/48 scale De Havilland Sea Devon. Martyn is aware of my love of any Fleet Air Arm aircraft and so I was delighted to take up the offer of a “Free of Charge” kit and the build process started almost immediately.

Magna Models are all resin moulded items with white metal or pewter details and vac-formed transparencies and are produced using what can only be described as cottage industry techniques. The fuselage is in two pieces, split vertically with a rather neat tongue and groove method of trapping the tail fin between the two halves. Each main plane is moulded in a single shot, which considering the amount of resin, has worked very well, there being little or no distortion over the length. The panel lines are nicely understated but clear enough to be emphasised if required.

The little bag of white metal parts contains the propellers, oleos and control columns together with exhausts and undercarriage doors. Just in case of accident, two vac-formed canopies and fairings are included but surprisingly no spare cabin window transparencies.

Completing the parts count are the engine nacelles, tail-plane, wheels, cockpit details and cabin seats. Initial progress on the build was quite swift but came to a grinding halt when I attempted to fit all the vac-formed cabin windows. The fit was less than satisfactory with little opportunity to improve the general effect so I took the somewhat risky decision to remove the entire side of the fuselage at window height and fit a clear plastic insert which could later be masked off to produce the glazing apertures. At this point I put the whole thing in the cupboard for several months whilst I contemplated the next step.

When I eventually summoned the courage to continue, the interior was painted to represent red leather upholstery (more of that later) and the cockpit was fitted out with a degree of scratch built detail and the fuselage halves were joined. I took great care to ensure that the cabin was sealed from any possible ingress of dust from the subsequent sanding operations as there was no way to gain entry to the cabin once the two fuselage halves were bonded together. So far so good. The main planes were then attached together with tail plane horizontal surfaces etc. The model now looked more or less like a miniature Sea Devon when a call from Martyn stopped the build in its tracks. Mr Gomm had decided to give up the manufacture of Magna Models. The partly finished project went back in the cupboard.

A year went by before, during a visit to the Motherland, Martyn asked how I’d gotten on with the Sea Devon? Let’s have another look. Hmm, not so bad. I should be able to get it completed for my own satisfaction without the now unnecessary review. I’d already decided that I would finish the aircraft as an Admiral’s Barge which explains the red leather and gave me the chance to use the remaining contents of a can of Ford Mondeo green aerosol that I’d used previously on a Sea Vampire. Gentle sanding of the airframe revealed dozens of tiny air bubbles just below the surface of the resin so copious quantities of filler were needed before Mr Halford’s own primer was applied overall. The upper and lower demarcation masking was straight forward so finally the trusty green can was exhausted. It was at this time that I was horrified to discover that the inside of the cabin windows were sprinkled with a layer of dust. I don’t know how it got inside and I’m afraid it will remain in place as there is no possible way of getting it out. Back into the cupboard it went. (note for next time…always leave a way into a fuselage….door, window, access panel or something).

A couple of months ago, guilt drove me to extricate the almost finished model from the top shelf and get the decals in place. The kit offerings were good to look at but did not perform well when introduced to water so most came from my own supply. Finally the undercarriage and propellers were added together with various aerials and ancillaries from the spares box.

At last it was complete. De Havilland C Mk20 Sea Devon XJ350 of 781 Sqn based at Lee-on-the-Solent as an Admiral’s Barge during 1961. I was relieved, Martyn was delighted and the club voted it “Model of the Month”

 

Model of the month for February 2017 is a 1/35th scale ZSU-23-4 of the Syrian Army, built by Allan Parker

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ZSU-23-4MZ Shilka (Meng)

Thanks to everyone for voting for my Shilka to be MoM, it is justification for the effort I put in to finish the kit.

I had previously built a version of the Shilka, made by Dragon, but it was poor quality and lacking in detail. At that time photographic reference material was very thin on the ground and my scratch building skill was very limited (not that it is much better now). However, that was all forgotten when Meng decided to release their rendition of the Shilka.

The kit itself is very well moulded and requires almost no clean-up. The instructions are very clear and allow you to build one of four versions of the Shilka, plus you get a fret of photo-etch brass to enrich the finish. The thing that really made me want to make this kit was the fact that you get the complete drivers compartment to construct, plus you get the detailed mouldings for the inside of the ammunition stowage bins. Neither of these enhancements was offered with the Dragon kit.

I started off by studying the instructions and the painting guide. You could build a ZSU-23-4V1, ..M, ..M2 or …MZ. I wanted to build a …MZ and put markings on from a unit of the Libyan Army as I had seen featured on the news in the not too distant past. However, the nearest country I could find that operated the …MZ was from the Syrian Army. Neither of these sets of markings is provided and so I found Star Decals had just what I was looking for.   It was important to decide early on which version I was going to build as Meng provide instructions as to precisely which locator holes to open up for use in later build steps to accommodate components specific to the version I wanted to build.

I began the build by putting the driver’s compartment together and painting it as per the instructions. The only reference pictures I could find for this area was a pristine example in a museum. To get the used/abused look, that I wanted to finish with, took a little artistic licence with the dry-brush and washes. I built the lower hull including the running gear and incorporated the driver’s compartment. Because I’d already painted the driver’s compartment and I didn’t want it to get ruined when I airbrushed the rest of the model, I used liquid mask to temporarily stick the driver’s hatch closed.

I constructed and painted the four cannons as a separate unit from the turret so that I could airbrush the hull and turret together before fixing the cannons in place. However, despite my best efforts, I just could not get the cannons to fit properly once the turret had been glued together. Never mind, plan B. Fix the cannons into position; glue the turret top and bottom halves together; mask off the cannons before getting the airbrush out.

I then moved on to the fantastic detail provided for the inside of the ammunition stowage bins. This needed to be shown off but I thought Meng hadn’t provided any extra parts to pose the lids in the open position. I couldn’t just glue the lids vertical and say it was “magic”; I had to work out how the bins were normally held open while the ammunition was being replenished. It was then that I noticed the detail which had been moulded onto the inside of the lids. Meng had actually provided small rods to represent the stays in the stowed position. I immediately chiselled these out and scratch-built the stays, from some plastic rod I had in my bits box, to hold the lids open.

I’ve been building various Trumpeter model kits recently and they seem to love providing track in the form of individual plastic links with separate guide horns for each link. I was pleased to find that Meng, whilst their track was provided as individual plastic links, had the guide horns moulded in. Having said that and despite taking extra care, I couldn’t get the track to look realistic so I resorted to buying white metal track from Sector35. I just love the natural sag from the weight of the white metal links.

The rest of the build seemed to go relatively smoothly up until the point after I’d sprayed the kit in overall desert tan (Humbrol Enamel 237). I was putting the Sector35 track on when it became apparent that the gap between the two guide horns on each link was too narrow for the road wheels to fit which meant there was a gap between the running surface of the track and the wheels where they are supposed to meet. To fix this I ended up shaving about 0.5mm off the bottom inside surface of each wheel. Now the road wheels sit nicely on the running surface of the track, PANIC OVER!!

To finish the model I used a combination of dry-brushing, washes and followed by many hours trying to replicate realistic chips and scratches plus a little rust and some AK Interactive Streaking Grime.

All in all, this has to be the kit I’ve enjoyed making the most.

 

Model of the Month for January 2017 was a Valom 1/72nd kit of an Armstrong Whitworth Albermarle built as P1383 ‘G’ 297 Squadron at RAF Stoney Cross in the of Autumn 1943  built by Henry Goodall.

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Fuelling has just finished as the aircrew arrive to board the aircraft and receive secret papers from a dispatch rider. These will be dropped tonight to the French Resistance together with arms, ammunition and radio equipment. The containers are checked by a corporal and aircrew member, as another airman carried the parachute strops to the aircraft. Before long ‘G’ George will soon be airborne on another dangerous single aircraft night mission.

Henry has sent in a further set of photos of the model

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and a description of the model and its build

Armstrong Whitworth Albemarle N, P1383 ‘G’ George, 297 Squadron, Stoney Cross, Autumn 1943

My grateful thanks go to everyone who voted for the Albemarle diorama this month. The inspiration for this build was meeting the daughter of the wireless operator of this aircraft, P1383 ‘G’ George, while on holiday in 2014. His logbook records several equipment drops to the French Resistance in late 1943 from Stoney Cross, in addition to his modest note “All crew awarded DFCs”, as the lead aircraft dropping the first ten 22nd Independent Para. Coy. Pathfinders on the Ranville DZ ‘N’ on D-Day.

I decided on a busy pre-mission diorama, to show off this unusual aircraft, once described as having “no vices and no virtues”. The 1/72 scale Valom kit has many of the common short run kit failings, including no locating pins and holes throughout, poorly fitting engine nacelles and inaccurate fuselage to cockpit canopy, nose canopy, rear fuselage windows and skylight joints.

However, with much dry fitting and patience, building up with filler, superglue and PVA glue etc., I was able to overcome most of these challenges. There is no real cockpit floor locating ledge, so repeated dry fitting was required, and lead sheet, to prevent it being a ‘tail sitter’. The offset dorsal turret lacks seating lugs, so these also have to be created. The decals are for a 297 Squadron aircraft, which operated from Stoney Cross; they seat well with Microsol/Microset. I modified them for the specific aircraft being built; however, obtaining a good style and colour match with Xtradecal WWII Bomber Command decals proved problematic.

Having masked the nose canopy over the navigator’s compartment before painting, I later discovered that the glue had spread to fog part of the windows.  A desperate e-mail to Valom produced a positive response; two sets of clear sprues arrived from Václav Lomitzki in the Czech Republic within 4 days, free of charge – what great service!!

The base (DisplaysUK – Christchurch) was augmented with sheet styrene, to enable fixing the model to the base with metal pins. I used Halfords Wet & Dry 240 for the Stoney Cross dispersal, with Gaugemaster autumn grass mat; Lifecolor Tensocrom oil and fuel spills and Paynes Grey/Burnt Sienna oil paint mix (dried puddles) completed the base. The accessories were mainly from the WWII Airfix Bomber Resupply set, the refuelling ladder and chocks by Flightpath, and figures from the Revell RAF Pilots & Ground Crew set. The fragile transverse glider tow apparatus broke easily; I substituted wire.

Painting was airbrushed with Humbrol matt enamels, vehicle camouflage was Lifecolor Panzergrau acrylic over Humbrol Dark Earth. Figures were painted mainly with Lifecolor acrylics, the Mae Wests with matt enamel, their straps and the container parachute strops were thinly cut wine bottle lead foil. The drop containers were sculpted from old sprue and drilled, wooden steps scratch built from sheet styrene and the ‘wheelbarrow’ scratch built from wire, with Flightpath etched wheels. The refuelling tubing was 0.8mm wire, with the spout 0.4mm wire.

Overall, it was a very satisfying build/challenge and will go into the FONFA Museum with copies of pages from Bill Pomfrey’s logook.”

 

Model of the Month for December 2016 is a 1/700th scale model of H.M.S. Aurora by Austin Stack.

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Post-war Arethusa-class light-cruiser HMS Aurora by AMJ Stack.
This is my take on HMS Aurora in 1/700 scale, as she may have looked in November 1945.
At this time she was one of the Royal Navy units in the Eastern Mediterranean. She was engaged intercepting shipping carrying illegal immigration to Palestine from Europe. The new Middle East was evolving and would soon unravel tragically. In the world, suspicion and distrust began to define East from West. Cold War began.
There’s not an awful lot to say about this kit that has not been said already about Flyhawk’s wonderful little light cruisers. These are not the 1/700 offerings your uncle used to give you for Christmas way back in the days of Green Shield Stamps!  To build, this kit is without vices. You can put your plastic card away as you won’t be needing it on this one.
There are aftermarkets for this, a wooden deck and brass main gun barrels for example, but I didn’t bother. I was more than happy to go with what was in the box. I could have replaced the quad ‘Pom-Pom’ mounts for Niko resin ones, but there was so little benefit that I decided to save them for something else instead. You can’t get better than Flyhawk   in plastic at the moment.

All I changed was the railings for GMM ‘Gold Plus Ultrafine’ (0.003), which GMM state is ‘virtually at the extreme limits of current technology…’ and ‘approaches the limits of human skill and dexterity as required for the successful use of these railings’. These look more scale-like.  The other thing was the masts. As supplied they are quite nice but as its always been one of my favorite ‘bits’ about modelling ships, I made them from 0.03 brass tube, bought locally at the same place I get all my supplies.(Westbourne Models).

My thanks to anyone who liked this and voted for it.
Merry Christmas and a Happy and Peaceful New Year to all.
Austin

 

 

Model of the month for November 2016

There was a dead heat in the voting at the club meeting on November 2nd.

Sharing the award was a 1/35th model of a sIG33 15cm Heavy Infantry Gun by Terry Howlett

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It was a very pleasant surprise to jointly win the November competition with this model. Although I’ve been modelling since about the age of 10, life got in the way in my thirties, and I only really dabbled until I was in my early fifties. Even then I was only able to start again properly when I moved to Dorset last year.

The SIG33 is one of a number of models that had been started some years before. It is my first completed AFV model for about 40 years! It is the old ALAN kit and needed an immense amount of tidying up and refining to turn it into something decent. The barrel was replaced by a small piece of aluminium tube and the wheels were heavily distressed with the trusty scalpel and files and lots of liquid poly to generally get them looking well used.

The build was carried out in several sub component parts. The gun cradle and chassis, the gun shield and attached components, the gun barrel and breech mechanism, and the two wheels. I reduced that to three main sub-assemblies by attaching the completed shield to the cradle. Painting then took place with the model in the three subassemblies.

Initially everything was airbrushed with a couple of light coats of Tamiya Hull red. After that each sub-assembly then was given a coat of Johnson’s Klear. A few days later and it was time to give everything several light airbrush coats of the base German Yellow which was mixed from Tamiya Acrylics. Next came the tricky part, masking for the camouflage. I used A cheap brand of blue tack to cover up everything that was to remain German Yellow, and over sprayed the German Green mixed Tamiya Acrylics. Finally, more blue tack onto those parts which were to remain green ready for the German Red Brown. I left all that for a few days then removed the blue tack to find a very neat looking three colour pattern! Very fiddly stuff but well worth it I think. At this stage I brush painted some of the tooling and airbrushed the sighting poles on the gun shield and the sight itself after some VERY careful masking! Then more weathering on those parts before the three sub-assemblies were then airbrushed with another fine layer of Klear.

I really enjoyed the next stage which involved some subtle weathering. I used mostly Tamiya Acrylic filters (diluted and tinted shades of the base colour). When everything was thoroughly dry I used Humbrol enamel based washes, usually of much darker shades than the underlying colours. There was a small amount of dry brushing of metallic parts and one or two areas which benefitted from dry brushing.Finally, all sub-assemblies were glued together and the model given a couple of very light airbrushed coats of Tamiya Acrylic flat varnish diluted with Isopropyl and ethyl Alcohol.

I am very pleased with the result, and in parallel with my 1/144 and 1/72 Aircraft projects underway, it has encouraged me to complete a couple of half constructed 1/35 AFV’s which have languished in a cupboard for a very long time! Hopefully you will see more soon.

Thank you all for your encouragement and support on this one!

…… and  the Master Box 1/35th figure set of British Infantry, Battle of the Somme, 1916 built by Clive Hillman as a sombre and moving monochrome memorial, the only colour some red poppies.

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I started with a kit of British 1916 Somme soldiers from a MB kit. I primed it with Halfords grey primer first but this made it hard for the figures to stick. The pavement base was a pre-made plaster cast which I gave two or three coats of primer, filled the cracks with dark dirt filler then went over with a black wash followed by a coat of varnish. The figures were painted with several different shades of grey, to keep it looking sombre.

The only colour to this piece were the poppies which were made from a photo etch kit and then painted (awkward or what). I put a pre-made wall that  I primed and put a black wash on to define joints on the pavement then I added the poppies followed by the figures. This was then added to a slate backdrop and put on a base covered with sand and primed to keep to maintain the grey colour.

I enjoyed this kit and a special reminder of the events 100 years ago this summer.

 

Model of the Month for October 2016  A Private in the Dorset Regiment in WW1 by Jez Thomson

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120mm WW1 Infantryman of the Dorset Regiment 1916

A resin kit from Imperial Gallery comprising a dozen well cast parts. Originally depicting a soldier of the Lancashire regiment this has been altered slightly to represent an infantryman of the Dorset regiment in 1916. Sounds spectacular but only meant the re-sculpting of the cap badge and a simple attempt to paint the brass Dorset shoulder flash.

Construction was simple but several dry runs are needed to check positions for the extra accoutrements and this led to a small amount of material being removed to ensure a really good fit – all of about 30 minutes work – a testimony to the quality of the original and the casting. Painting was entirely by hand using almost entirely acrylics – Citadel, Vallejo and Lifcolour, except for the flesh areas (sorry Ian!) boots and woodwork which is done in oils over an acrylic base.

I tended to use colours “straight from the pot” and then relied on filters and glazes to add shadows and highlights. Various sandy tones were used for the highlighting and browns for the shadows and for emphasis in certain areas.

The only “serious” alteration made was to replace the water-bottle straps as the originals did not do justice to the quality of the rest of the model. Other straps were built from lead and aluminium foil as required added towards the end of the build and then blended in to the cast versions.

Thank you for your votes this has been a very enjoyable project – I will be looking at more of Rob Hardwick’s figures in the future – which by the time you read this will have been donated to the Gillingham Branch of the Devon and Dorset Association to help raise funds at their annual dinner.

Model of the Month for September 2016 is a wonderful atmospheric model of …… a Zombie Burger van. It can only be adequately described by its maker, Sarah and her words follow below the pictures. We leave you with one thought, what are the Zombies’ burgers made of?

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“Hello…here is the description of my model, they say a little chaos liberates you, so I present the apocalyptic burger van ,because zombies need to eat to…in the spirit of using free stuff I started with an old picture frame ,creating a base with clay ,adding mounds and texture ,upon that came brown paint and dried tea leaves. The whole base evolved at its own rate, grass, leaves mud and broken brick piles ..generously donated was the main event of the ice cream van and zombies ,the joy of deconstructing the van and ripping off the wheels was the best part and thanks to Tom for teaching me how to use MiG powders for the classic rust effect. The Zombies were a challenge, but they came out well and looking hungry. I enjoyed painting these guys. The coup de gras was leaving the tune on the van which I felt added a fun factor to the tableau. I don’t think my methods will ever be as organized as my esteemed colleagues, who I learn from and am inspired by, but I’ve never been normal ,so thanks for enjoying my mad world….X”

Model of the Month August 2016 was a dead heat.

Joint winners were

Jonathan King with his 1.48th scale Stuka

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‘Kanonenvogel – Cannonbird’

This Ju87 G-2 comes from the eastern front where it was used in the specialised anti tank role with 37mm cannons fitted instead of the usual dive bomber configuration. Derived from the Ju87 dive bomber and ground attack aircraft which first flew 1935 and saw had a combat debut in 1937 with the Condor legion during the Spanish civil war.

In the dive bomber role the aircraft was used with great effectiveness to spearhead air assaults during the invasion of Poland in 1939 and the Norwegian campaign shortly after. However once the air superiority was lost it was an easier target for allied fighters.

This aircraft was flown by Hans-Ulrich Rudel. He was the most successful Stuka pilot and the most highly decorated German serviceman of the Second World War, credited with 519 tank kills over 2,530 ground attack missions but also a highly controversial figure after the war, dying in 1982 and up to his death still an advocate supporter of Hitler. His burial in Germany (after many years in Argentina ) was reported to have been marked by a fly past by some F4s.

Back to the kit which was from Italeri (2722) and a straight forward build with good quality detailed parts and some photo etch for the interior. It’s not the most graceful of aircraft but since I built a 1/24 version of the dive bomber many years ago I have always appreciated the angular and purposeful looks (a product of the inverted gull wings) . There are a few variants of G2 kits available but I chose this kit as it had the option of the detailed Jumo 211 inverted v12 engine which could be left exposed to help make the diorama more interesting.

On the downside there is a lot of canopy to work with and get wrong.. this did go wrong when the masking didn’t go as planned and resulted in an order for a replacement and trying again. The exterior masking and painting proved much easier and as it was my first attempt with an air brush went better than expected. Standard acrylic Luftwaffe colours from Mr Hobby were used and seem to work well. Weathering effects were added little by little; this is all very new to me and a whole new skill to try and master. The slowly slowly approach allowed me to get the effect I was looking for but not without thinking I was going to mess up a perfectly good looking paint job..

The diorama was put together using coffee stirring sticks for the decking, stained and covered with some aggregate here and there. A couple figures, some packing crates and oil cart completed the scene which I tried to keep simple.

and

Austin Stack’s model of the French Battleship “HOCHE”

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This is my 1/700 take on the French pre-dreadnought Hoche in 1890. This is a Combrig resin kit from a Russian company well known for it’s range of ships of this era.Anyone not familiar with these kits who might wish to examine them more closely can do so on the Steel Navy web site  website, I would suggest. One is also rewarded with a fuller history than one might otherwise find in one place.

I won’t comment on the quality of the mouldings, the detail, the research and the fit of parts here other than saying that the kits are very good and straight-forward to build if one pays attention to planning. One works from drawings in plan and profile and an exploded view. So do be careful not to get yourself ‘locked-out’ by finding areas inaccessible as you progress. It’s easily done take my word for it!
The model needed portholes surrounds (I used a period-looking set from an old  Artist Hobby sheet of PE) and some torpedo nets and booms (rolled-flat wire from an electrical cable and some painted button thread). I used only a few parts from the kit’s PE (a bit heavy to my taste but perfectly acceptable) using GMM and Five Star  PE instead and I replaced the main and secondary batteries with turned-brass products from Sea Master.
The finish is Humbrol bases with water colours (mostly to represent woods) and oils (mostly for painted metals). A finishing coat of matt varnish ties it all together. Rigging is sprue and crew are  Dream Model  (RN actually, couldn’t find French)!
The base is 10X10 mahogany (seasoned, by Amarti) that I have mitred and pinned with brass dowel, stained rosewood and varnished. The sea is 80 though plastic card painted maritime blue and after the model was fixed (very early in the build as usual) I used acrylic Vallejo clear Water Effects to sculpt a sea and used the same but with Windsor and Newton white acrylic added to it at the ratio of one part white to twenty parts Vallejo just to get a little bow wave and prop wash going.
Thanks to all who voted for it.

Model of the Month July 2016 Master Box 1/35th scale injection moulded kit “British infantry before the attack, WW1 era” by  John Levesley

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07:20 hours July 1st 1916

The British Front Line facing the fortified village of Serre, on the Somme

The first wave, A Company of the 12th (Service) Battalion Yorks and Lancs Regiment, the City of Sheffield Battalion, part of the 94th Brigade of the 31st Division, moves out 100 yards into No Man’s Land. They will be followed by C Company, the second wave, 30 yards behind. The third (B Company) and fourth (D Company) waves are some distance behind them in the trenches and will follow in turn. The distance between the British and German lines before Serre is about 140 yards.

At 07:30 the artillery barrage on the German lines lifts and the first wave moves forward followed by the second, third and fourth waves. Only a few soldiers reach the German front line. Few of them return, many just disappear. Few soldiers of the third and fourth waves even reach No Man’s Land. The Battalion sends 697 men forward. Coming out of the line on the 4th July at a parade and roll call, amongst those who took part in the attack, only 102 answer to their names. In less than thirty minutes over 500 have been killed, wounded or are missing and a further 73 are “lightly wounded”.

Sheffield is my home city and my grandparents told me of the sacrifice of our Battalion. This model was made in memory of those members of my grandparents’ generation who were lost between the British front lines in Luke and John Copses and the German front lines below Serre that dreadful morning.

The model is the Master Box 1/35th scale injected moulded kit “British infantry before the attack, WW1 era”. The model contains five figures and a section of trench. I’ve used just four figures, the fifth is a great model of a British Staff Officer who is staying behind but I chose not to include it. The figures are representative of British troops in 1916, and are built out of the box except for the addition of strips of thin lead sheet for rifle slings. I also used some “Perfect Plastic Putty” to give the impression the helmets have cloth covers over them – a feature seen in many photographs of British troops on the Somme. I haven’t added divisional or brigade insignia to the uniform, they are proving difficult to research for 1916. Some sources say that they were not in fact worn in the front line.

The trench is a simple build. The instructions don’t mention it but the trench can be built, single sided but twice the length; sufficient extra duckboards and fire steps are included. The duckboards have optional cut outs that can be combined with moulded fillets of “earth” so the trench can be modelled with an angle at the half way point. The barbed wire is made from a model railway accessory, rewound to a wider diameter, sprayed a rust colour and sprinkled with two different colour rusty pigments. The wooden frames are stained cocktail sticks. If I built it again I would add sheets of corrugated iron that were often used to reinforce the lower half of the wooden trench walls.

I made extensive use of pigments to colour wash and texture the sandbags, firesteps and duckboards. Crushed blackboard chalk was used to represent the natural chalk of the Somme basin. Earth and grass were model railway texture material and the poppies are also model railway accessories. I also made washes of the chalk to colour the trench walls, based on a colour online photo I found of a restored trench on the Somme battlefield.

The Y&L cap badge and Y&L Sheffield shoulder flash are genuine WW1 period uniform items.

John Levesley

Addendum

When I built this model I did not add any unit markings in the form of battle insignia. My research at that point had only served to confuse me as to what was worn and when. I now have Mike Chappell’s book “British Battle Insignia (1) 1914 -1918” published by Osprey. (Part 2 deals with the insignia of WW2). What I learnt from the book was that 1916 was a year of change in that the identify of units was being made less obvious for greater security. To grossly simplify the books content; Divisions, Brigades and Battalions adopted coloured symbols on their equipment and uniforms to identify who they were. Some divisions applied their symbols only to vehicles and equipment, others had a divisional badge on uniforms as well. Brigade and battalion badges were worn on uniforms, positioning varied. In the front line the wearing of regimental insignia was discouraged as it helped the enemy identify the unit.

It is most likely that when the Sheffield Battalion was in the front line they would not have worn either a Y&L badge or their metal Sheffield shoulder badges. The 31st Division did not, it appears, have its badge on its soldiers’ uniforms but both a brigade badge and a battalion badge was worn. The 94th Brigade badge was carried on the upper back and was a cloth square, red over white. The Sheffield Battalion, the second battalion of the third brigade in the division, wore a green circle on their upper arm. It’s quite likely that a coloured flash/symbol was carried to identify each company but so far I haven’t been able to identify those.

sheffield battalion battle insignia

Finally another scan through the history of the Sheffield Battalion reveals a contemporary record that the night before the attack the soldiers backpacks were decorated with a shiny metal triangle to help observation posts track the progress of the troops. Since the photographs above were taken I have added Brigade and Battalion badges and used the same lead foil I used for the rifle slings to reproduce the shiny triangles on the backpacks.

Model of the Month June 2016. “Stepping the Steppe” 1/35th scale Josef Stalin IS 2 by Martin Crabb

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On a trip to the Toy and Collector’s Fair at The Bath and West Showground, Shepton Mallet, I acquired a small collection of four 1/35 scale tank kits. Three Italeri and a Dragon for forty quid, just the type of price I like! The Dragon kit was this Russian JS-2m or IS-2m if you are from Russia. Not knowing much about this tank but loving the look, I did a small amount of research into it, finding these tanks were developed in 1943 as a Tiger killer. Armed with its 122mm gun it could penetrate 160mm of armour plate at 1000 metres. This version was built in the Chelyabinskogo Kirovski Works, Zavod.

The kit came with no instructions, but they were sourced very easily online. Construction was straight forward with no major fit issues, the separate track links were brilliant, not magic tracks but they pushed together tightly with no glue, meaning they could be fitted and shaped to form the track sag only gluing when happy.

Moving on to the painting, starting with a Russian green primer followed by some white primer to give some pre-fade to the panels. Base coat was Vallejo’s model air Russian green. This was then slightly lightened with some radome tan to enhance fading to the paint.After painting the white air recognition markings I gave it a quick clear coat and applied the decals. Once this was done I noticed the decals were translucent and showed green. A coat of heavily thinned US dark green brought the tone of the white stripes down to match the decals and also enhanced the modulated look. Highlights were dealt with by using Russian uniform green.

Weathering wise I did not want to go too heavy, so worn paint was depicted with a rub of the ever helpful graphite pencil, a small amount of rust, dust and stains were added to create a used look.

Not really sure on any type of base to mount it on, I scratched my head and came upon the idea of it heading out of Russia, across the open plains, the Steppes. Fairly simple static grass on pva glue with some tufts and longer dead grasses were used to create the plains. Looking at the model once completed, I thought how mean it looked, talking the talk, walking the walk…

“Stepping the Steppe”

 

 

 

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Vikings Raids 2017

 For PVSM Members the Vikings Raids Page Tab above explains more about how we do this and how to join in.

We will be attending

 Sat 3rd June Salisbury Laverstock SP1 1RE table Salisbury Model Show 2017

July Sat 15th      Romsey Model Show, Ampfield Village Hall, Morley’s Lane, Romsey, SO51 9BJ Romsey Model Show     

August Sun 6th   Boscombe Down model & craft show. Old Sarum SP4 6DZ  Old Sarum Show

August   Sun 13th   IPMS Avon Thornbury  BS35 3JB

September Sat 16th  Farnborough Modelfest Camberley  GU15 2PQ

October Sat 7th    Tank Mod Bovington BH20 6JG

Planning is underway for us to attend other shows and details will be added as they are confirmed

 

 

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The Tiger Collection 2017: the Tank Museum Bovington.

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The Tank Museum

 

 

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Hall of Fame

A gallery showing a single photo of former Models of the Month and other models by our members that have won prizes at our own and other shows.

Model of the Month May 2016. 1/72nd scale Westland Lysander Mk IIISD by Henry Goodall

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I used the original 1973 Airfix 01004-5 Westland Lysander III (SD) moulding, re-boxed as No. 02053 in 1998. It is still the most widely available and accurate 1/72 scale Mk III (SD) kit, although the similar Matchbox kit can also be found, via the Internet. The latter’s deeply engraved panel lines on the fuselage and wheel spats need to be reduced. Both kits use (incorrect) lugs to attach the wings to the cockpit; the Airfix as part of the clear cockpit assembly and the Matchbox as part of the wings. These need to be removed for a vacuum canopy to be installed. My photos of the Shuttleworth Lysander enabled me to replicate the metal tube construction and oil tank, supporting the junction of wings and fuselage, with a Falcon FNCV2272 Clear-Vax canopy replacing the thick plastic kit offering.The leading edge slats were fashioned from sheet styrene and the slots sculpted out of the wings. The flaps were set in the fully down position and the tailplane positioned for landing.

The kit wheels are too narrow; I used aftermarket Typhoon/Tempest wheels, which approximate to the Lysander’s wheels, although both spats and wheels need to be trimmed to achieve a good fit. The Kora DS7250 resin engine cowling and exhaust are more accurate than the Airfix one; the Matchbox cowling is in between, for accuracy. The kit decals were modified to depict MA-J and the ‘Jiminy Cricket’ nose art painted onto decal material and  attached normally. Apart from these modifications and the scratch built propeller, instrument panel and external tank fuel pipe, the kit was built ‘straight out of the box’.

Model of the Month April 2016. Tamiya’s 1/35th scale Matilda Mk II(1941) and Challenger MK 3(1991)tanks by Martin Crabb

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After a long while away from modelling, due to starting a family, one of my passions is building Tamiya kits of the 70s& 80s. Many of these were well beyond my pocket money in my youth, but are now very affordable. I have found that they are great kits to build, unlike some!  The two kits in the display are both Tamiya; the Matilda Mk1 being a 70s kit and the Challenger 1 Mk3 from the early 90s, both sourced from a car boot sale for a tenner!

The Matilda depicts a 7th Armoured Division vehicle from the ‘Africa’ campaign 1941 and the Challenger a vehicle from the 7th Armoured Brigade, Kuwait 1991. With there being 50 years between the two I thought they would make a good partnership and show the progress in armour and weaponry development.

The kits were built straight out of the box. There were no instructions with the Matilda but I sourced them very quickly on the internet. Both kits had no major fit issues, making them very easy to build. The only addition I chose to make was using some iridescent self-adhesive for the optics on the Challenger.

After priming with Vallejo white primer they were pre-shaded with black primer to give a faded/bleached look to the panels. Base coat was Vallejo’s Iraqi sand which was further highlighted with pale sand to give the paint a more bleached effect. After a quick gloss coat the decals were added and a pin wash given to darken the recesses. Vallejo desert dust pigment was used to weather the vehicles and some rust and soot added to highlight exhausts, making them look used. The whole model was then matt coated to finish. The base was kept simple with some plastering sand sieved onto PVA to add interest.

 

Model of the Month March 2016. 1/700th scale USS Pennsylvania (BB-38) by  Austin Stack

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The USS Pennsylvania (BB-38) was a battleship commissioned in 1916. It was like it’s sister the Arizona at Pearl during the Japanese attack. Repairs took until 1942. It was involved in most of the major campaigns of the Pacific during the last three years of the war, having several major refits. During the bombardment of Guam in 1944, the Pennsylvania fired more heavy shells in a single campaign than any other ship in history. My model depicts her early in 1945.

This is the Dragon kit of 2008 manufacture in my favourite 1/700 scale.  I’d had it two years in my stash waiting for additional reference (on the net) to show up but when none did I decided to just go ahead early in January this year. Dragon ‘enjoyed’ a reputation in my old club for poor fit second to none and this kit didn’t disappoint on that score, there being problems throughout. However, my decision to use a real wood self-adhesive deck from Blue Star Admiral and all that that entails probably meant I created as many problems as I was presented with.
After the deck has been laid and all the 40mm and 20mm shields and all the anchor runs that had been removed in order to facilitate this had been reinstated, the model built quite conventionally. I had an obvious difference in scale thickness between the photoetch shields and breakwaters and the plastic ones so I attempted to reduce the latter from the insides with a rotary tool. For the main 14 inch guns and the secondary 5 inch battery I used Sea Master turned brass barrels. Very simple to use and more convincing in my opinion. For the AA, Nico models resin quad 40 mm mounts were used but I replaced the barrels with wire as they were finer than the 20mm Gold Medal Models (GMM) I used for this battery. All doors, which are handed, came from Five Star. All ladders, various radars, catapult, crane, and ship’s yardarms came from the GMM set USN Battleship. The anchor chains and crew are Eduard.

Model of the Month February 2016. 1/48th scale DHC Chipmunk by Ian Domeney

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The aircraft is a Chipmunk T10 of the Royal Navy Historic Flight, operated by the flight to act as a trainer for aircrew to keep current on tail draggers and retains its Light Aircraft Grey and Signal Red colour scheme it wore during its time with the Britannia Flight at Roborough.

The kit is by Aeroclub and is a very simple limited run injection moulded item with white metal undercarriage and a vacformed canopy.  The build was quite straightforward with the fuselage split vertically with the fin as an integral part and both the main and tail planes as single items.  In fact the whole kit comprises of only twenty three pieces.

Everything fitted together nicely and needed very little filler but the cockpit detail is a little sparse.  I enhanced the area with reference to as many interior photos as I could find.  (How did we ever build plastic models before the internet)?  I’m especially pleased with the canopy framework which I scratch built from various odds and sods.  I added some after market seat belts and then cut the canopy from the windscreen to display the finished kit with this slid back.  I usually find vacformed canopies a bit of a nightmare but this again was quite easy to handle.

Model of the Month January 2016. 1/35th scale M32 tank recovery tank by Keith Edwards.

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The model kit was an  Italeri M32 Sherman Recovery Tank. It’s been sitting in my stash cupboard for years, but we have a mini competition at work where someone picks a type of model to build and as the subject this time was ‘recovery vehicles’ it was the perfect time to build this one. The build went ok, and even though there were a lot of really fiddly bits, I was quite impressed with the kit. I decided to incorporate some figures on a base. These were by Alpine and a company called Bravo 6 which, once painted I was really pleased with.  I already had the base,  which was by Dio and once all assembled I think went together well.

Model of the Month December 2015. 1/32nd scale Fokker Eindecker, Wingnut Wings by Matthew John

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Right from the off I was hooked, slowly but surely learning the vagaries of the Wingnut Wings plans and build sequence. These are by nature complex aircraft to replicate and the full colour instructions help enormously, highlighting in blue the current build section.  I used a combination of Uschi van der Rosten wood grain decals and rigging thread to get that almost steampunk look many cockpits from this era have. The fuel tanks and lines were painted a combination of brass and copper and I used Albion Alloys nickel silver wire for the internal control lines.

Whilst the fit of these kits is very good, they are made to very tight tolerances and any deviation from the norm does mean some fiddling to get the two fuselage sides to marry up with no problems. This kit did highlight my modelling deficiencies and I did have to fudge certain areas, most notably the cockpit, machine gun fittings and the engine cowling. However, the main elements went together very nicely and as the plans showed (there are some excellent photos throughout the instructions) no two Eindeckers were ever built exactly the same way and my Eindecker is testament to that. I’d chosen to build Max Immelman’s aircraft and as this showed a paint I didn’t have (Fokker Green) I instead opted for Mr Hobby RLM02 and from all the colour plans I’d seen, this was, IMHO, pretty much a perfect match.

Model of the Month November 2015 (no meeting in October). 1/48th scale Delta Dart by Matthew John.

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F106A Delta Dart   1/48 scale   Trumpeter

The Delta Dart was a subject I wasn’t overly familiar with until Jason Lake at LSA Models sent me one  as a return on some credit I’d built up. Jason had asked me what I’d like and I replied, oh any old cold war jet.  If I’m honest, the box art didn’t fill me with a burning desire to build it either, its side on view not really capturing the Dart’s sleek yet slightly menacing design and I would have undoubtedly passed it over in a model shop. Upon opening the pretty big box though I started to feel a pang of real   interest, lots of sprues, a wonderfully clear canopy and even some photo etch. The beautiful design of the Dart became more apparent with each completed section and by the   time I was fitting the carefully masked and sprayed air brakes I was totally smitten with this plane, so   much so I may well have a go at a Dagger in the near future.

Model of the Month September 2015. 1/72nd scale Diorama; Sopwith Camel by Jim Smith.

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The idea for this diorama came whilst researching Sopwith Camel colours.  I found a photo of one of the US Navy Camels (they had six) taken at Guantanamo Bay, Cuba in 1920. Fitted with a hydrovane forward of the undercarriage and Grain Flotation gear to assist in ditching at sea they were with the fleet, experimenting with flying off platforms fitted above the gun turrets on the battleships. Both these inventions were developed and tested at the RNAS Experimental Depot Grain.  This made for a different looking Camel, and with its unusual mode of transport and variety of uniforms on show this was a scene just waiting to be depicted in model form. The model of the Camel is the Airfix offering which is very basic but does look like a Camel and I happened to have one to hand.

Model of the Month August 2015: Airfix 1/72nd scale Tiger Moth by Henry Goodall

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The stimulus for this build came when I was helping the FONFA (Friends of the New Forest Airfields) Trustees to clear out the old association building, prior to moving all valuable items into storage, until the new building becomes available next spring. Amongst the piles of various material, old boxes etc., we discovered an original Tiger Moth Mk 2 Maintenance Manual, which appeared to date from the mid-1930s. I suggested that I could find a ‘good home’ for it, with retired Sea Harrier and Virgin Atlantic 747-400 pilot, Lt Cdr David Morgan DSC, the highest scoring ace in the Falklands Conflict. The Trustees agreed and, much to my surprise, David offered a flight in his Tiger Moth, in exchange. To repay this kind offer, I decided to model his Tiger Moth, as a ‘thank you’ for the upcoming flight. I first met David through the good offices of a friend and fellow Virgin Atlantic pilot, while sitting in the ‘jump seat’ for the take off from Washington-Dulles and landing at London Heathrow, in 2000. David was the First Officer on the flight

Model of the Month July 2015. Revell 1/72nd scale MERKAVA Mk III by Dave Lovell

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Made by Revell, I don’t think its a recent moulding  but despite its age, its a sharp piece of work very crisp and flash free. Its also made from decent plastic. I know that sounds daft but you guys will know what I mean. No problems at all with the build, this is a true shake and make, the only slow part was the link and length tracks, not that there were any problems but at 1/72 these are a bit fiddly, This was a whole lot of fun for under a tenner, there is so much detail in this kit it would be a shame not to try and do it justice. I hope some of this makes sense, if not please ask at the next club meeting as most of what I’ve learnt has been by asking questions at club.

 Model of the Month June 2015. The Battle of the Atlantic — the sinking of U-225  by Henry Goodall (photos by Henry too)

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The Battle of the Atlantic was the longest running battle of WW2, fought between September 1939 and May 1945 by British, Canadian and United States’ escorts, protecting convoys of merchant ships carrying essential supplies to Britain, against the German U-Boat ‘Wolfpacks’. In his memoirs, Winston Churchill recalled “The only thing that ever really frightened me during the war was the U-boat peril”. The battle reached a peak in early 1943, after which the numbers of Allied ships lost fell, as the number of U-Boats sunk rose. This was due both to improved radar and sonar in the escorts and to the increased operational range of shore based patrol aircraft.

Model of the Month May 2015.  ‘High in the Empty Blue’by Henry Goodall

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The great uncle of a personal friend, Lt. Robert Sloley, the only son of the South African High Commissioner, transferred to the RFC from the Royal Garrison Artillery and was promoted to temporary Lieutenant on 1 July 1917. Posted to the elite 56 Squadron, he scored 9 victories in six weeks during August and September, two being shared. Two days after his final victory, he was shot down and killed, in combat with four Albatri, on 1 October.

I researched his operational career and decided to depict one of his victories, using several scales in the diorama to give depth to the aerial battle. September 14th was the one that stood out as being an ideal subject, when a group of 56 Squadron SE5s attacked eight Jasta 26 Albatros scouts, west the Belgian village of Zandvoorde.

“Capt Bowman (SE5A “M”) led 56 Squadron ‘C’ Flight and elements of ‘A’ Flight (Lts Jeffs SE5A “D” and Sloley SE5 “E”) on morning patrol at 12,000 feet in a strong westerly wind, encountering eight enemy Albatri below, which scattered. Bowman chased one down through cloud, which eventually crashed near Menin. Sloley attacked one with a red nose and tail, firing 50 rounds and sending it into a spin; he then attacked another, painted grey with a blue tail which, after another 100 rounds, became his fourth victory.”

Model of the Month April 2015.  Tamiya 1/35th scale Cromwell MkIV by Trevor Griffiths

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I found the resin turret and accessories from Black Dog models, I liked the idea of the camouflage on the turret just to make the kit just that bit different from the standard kit, I decided to attach the hedge cutter from the start, I also scratch -built the “box” holding the petrol cans, the other items came from various accessories, Tamiya,  Verlinden,  Black Dog,  AFV, the figure from the Mini-art British tank crew (35078).  I left the front mudguards off as most of these got damaged when cutting through the hedgerows anyway, they would have been removed by the crews

Model of the Month March 2015. 1/48th scale Me 262 by Mark Turney

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Model of the Month February 2015. Mk IV Tadpole tank 1/35th scale by Clive Hillman

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The Mk. 4 “Tadpole” was made by EMHAR. I first gave it a coat of grey primer followed by spray coat of Modelair green and brown colours. I then gave it a covering of dark dirt weathering letting that dry, then rubbing it back with cotton wool before dry brushed a reddish brown powder on. The hand painted figures are a from a set made by Master Box,. I used real dirt for a realistic look then finished with a coat of matt varnish all over.

Model of the Month January 2015. SU 27 Flanker 1/48th scale by Keith Edwards

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I usually like to make AFVs, but I thought I’d like to try something different for a change. This was my first attempt at an aircraft build for many many years and I found myself enjoying the challenge very much. I’ve always thought the SU27 Flanker a beautiful aircraft so it had to be the one to build first.I upgraded  the exhaust nozzles with Aires replacements, and a Quickboost replacement nose cone, and Scale aircraft white metal landing gear. The cockpit had lots of resin and photo etched bits – very fiddly and time consuming, but worth it.

Model of the Month December 2014. Potez 63/11 1/72nd scale by Jim Smith

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The kit is a Heller 1960s vintage and as such has raised surface detail and virtually no interior detail, but it appears to be basically accurate and the detail is nice and restrained so the model looks ‘right’. Having seen on the web, during my preliminary research, a picture of a model with all the crew hatches opened up, I thought I would try the same. Firstly I set to and cut out the hatches and as the glazing moulding was very thick had to replace much of it with clear plastic sheeting . The original nose glazing was used, it looked OK and I would have struggled to mould a replacement. Next on to the interior, I used the floor, instrument panel and control column from the kit the rest was built up from scrap plastic, two seats from the spares box , seatbelts and levers from photo etch.

Model of the November 2014. Captured British Mk IV (female) tank 1/35th scale by Trevor Griffiths

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The kit itself did go together quite well although I did have a problem in a couple of places where a small amount of filler was required between the joints, nothing too testing thankfully and I didn’t lose any of the rivet detail. The chain driven drive sprocket at the rear were included in the kit but once the side plates were fitted couldn’t be seen so it kind of defeated having them really. The tracks themselves could have been made workable but I chose to glue them straight onto the tank. The painting of the vehicle was straightforward , Halfords grey primer then Tamiya paints, starting with the blue/grey XF – 18 then yellow XF- 60 red brown XF- 64 , the whole model was given a coat of MIG- P241 wash, a mixture of 30% paint (Humbrol 160) 70% thinners was made up and each rivet was given a “pin wash” plus all around various other raised detail, the tracks were painted Humbrol 160 and then when dry MIG European earth “dusted on” and then using MIG fixer was left to dry.

Model of the Month October 2014. HMS Intrepid (L11) by Ralph Dodds

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The HMS FEARLESS kit was first released by Airfix in 1964 and represents an above average model of the period. There was some flash and a fair amount of injector moulding pins to remove but overall the basic shape was about right for FEARLESS as she was built. Unfortunately, ships change in various refits and it is true to say that no two ships of the same class will ever be identical. So there were lots of changes required to bring the kit up to 1981 INTREPID standard. These included extending 03 deck to the after end of the superstructure, extending the bridge rear screen, scratch building the OUTs’ navigation cabin aft of the bridge and correct shape LCVP davits, updating fore and main masts to reflect the correct height and platform configuration etc etc.

Model of the Month September 2014. Panther Ausf D with 3.7 Flak 1/35th scale by Trevor Griffiths

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I bought this hobby-boss kit last April at our show, it is one of those models that catches your eye and you say to yourself yes I’d like to make that. Not long afterwards I saw a DVD by A K Interactive on how to use washes, filters, fading and oils etc, so I purchased the DVD. I decided that I would try these methods on this model. I was outside my comfort zone having never tried all of these things on a model in one go, my models tend to come out ‘clean’, so this was one small step for mankind one big step for yours truly…..

Model of the Month August 2014. Dragon by Kip Watson (for his daughter Kimi)

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The model was very simple to put together only seven parts, with the normal pitfalls with resin, the biggest was loosing detail when using filler. My eyesight’s not as good as it used to be. So there was a lot of re-sculpting of scales looking through bottle bottom lenses.

There’s not a lot of factual research on the colour of dragons so the sky’s the limit…. pardon the pun.

All of the paint was Tamiya and air brushed start to finish. The final highlights were added with a brush… a rarity for me.

Finally the dragon needed somewhere to stand… it had to be hot…. Kimi liked it, but said the dragon would be burning his feet.

Lockheed P38J Lightning. by Henry Goodall

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Winner of the Bruce Arterton Trophy at the 2014 Poole Vikings Model Show. The P-38J ‘Curly Six’ O-8L 44-23568 was the personal aircraft of Captain Jack L. Reed of the 393rd Fighter Squadron, 367th Fighter Group, during the summer of 1944, based at Stoney Cross and later at Ibsley, Hampshire, before the Group moved to France. The Minicraft 1/48th scale kit was enhanced with aftermarket additions, including Paragon resin/etched flaps and gun bay, Flightpath ladder & service gantry, Aires resin Allison engine, Eduard etched brass cockpit, ammunition belt etc., Squadron vacuform canopy, Teknics ladders, toolbox and ground crew, Verlinden pilot, airfield accessories set and ground crew. The aircraft aluminium finish was airbrushed with Alclad; additional painting was with Humbrol enamels and figure painting with LifeColor acrylics.Aerials were 12/0 Orvis fishing line. The lower part of the open starboard engine and panels were scratchbuilt (wire and lead foil), as was the airfield dispersal base (Halfords wet & dry 240), which simulates concrete at 1/48th scale well. The pattern was taken directly from one of the 393rd FS dispersal pans at Stoney Cross. The wood base and case was from Widdowson’s Acrylic Display cases.

Model of the Month July 2014. 1/72nd scale Dornier Do17 by Andy Sweet

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I originally built this Airfix Dornier 17e during one day in 1972. Forty odd years later and it was removed from a dusty cardboard box and gradually re-worked over a couple of months.

Model of the Month June 2014. 1/35th Austin 10hp Utility (Tilly) Diorama by John Levesley.

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The Austin Tilly is the standard Tamiya 1/35th scale kit built out of the box. The kit contains options for early and late Tillys, and a good reference source to get it right is Michael Shackleton’s “Tilly Colours”. This model has the earlier wooden tailgate, hubcaps, twin “civvie” style headlights, early trafficators and a narrow slat radiator. The canvas tilt provided is right for an early model too. The only add-ons are the tailgate chains that are from the spares box, a left over from an American HO model railroad flat car. The basic model colour is airbrushed plain Khaki Green G-3 overall, my own mix of Tamiya paints- 80% Khaki Drab, 20% Flat Yellow.

Hawker Typhoon 1b by Tom Rayer

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Hawker Typhoon 1b is the Airfix 1/72 model A02041 that can be built as the 247 Squadron, No.124 Wing 2nd Tactical Air Force that can be modelled with June 1944 Invasion markings. The alternative decals in the kit are for 439 Squadron, No.143 Wing 2nd Tactical Air Force. Airfix have given the option for the model to be built, with the wing mounted guns panels displayed in the open position, or in the closed position. My model was voted into 1st place at the May 2015 Torbay Military Modelling Society show in Group.3 Model Aircraft 1/72 scale.

Model of the Month, May 201. T-90 Tank built by Allan Parker from the Zvezda T-90 in 1:35 scale.

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Model of the Month for  March 2014. SONDERFAHRGESTELL:, , made by Trevor Griffiths

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Model of the Month for May 2013. NEUBAU-FAHRZEUG Nr 3-5 made by Trevor Griffiths

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Vikings raid on Aldingbourne 2017

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We were out and about on March 4th at the Aldingbourne model show (Modelex) on Saturday . Malcom, Jim and Ian D attended.

 

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Vikings Raid on Bovington 2017

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